Iona

A modern carving from the restored cloisters of Iona Abbey Church

Iona is the ultimate Pilgrim Island. I have paddled to it many times, though never round it. I have never slept on it. So Amy and I set out to put that right.

From the Abbey. Meadow grass witith swallows slope down to the sea.

Colum Cille, St Columba arrived on Iona in 563AD. From his home in County Donegal in the wild North West of Ireland he had landed first on Oronsay but from Beinn Oronsay, the highest hill, he could still see Ireland. On Iona there was no such problem. The highest hill, Càrn Cùl ri Éirinn, translates as “The Hill with its back to Ireland.” 

This is related as a somewhat quaint, possibly mythical story. And it possibly is. But it may also be to misunderstand early Irish Christianity. In the Roman Church that many of us were brought up in the path to martyrdom or Sainthood is achieved by the sacrifice of death.

Christianity reached Ireland by a different route. Ireland was never conquered by Rome nor part of the Roman Empire. The early Irish Church was inspired by the teachings of the Desert Fathers and shaped by Celtic tribal traditions.

Early Irish Christian teaching was carried along sea routes that had been built since neolithic times eventually connecting the Mediterranean, the Iberian Peninsula and the wild Atlantic edge at least as far as Shetland.

In the restored cloisters every column is different and beautifully carved

In the early Irish Church martyrdom was attainable by three paths. There was the Red Martyrdom of death, the Green Martyrdom which emulated Christ’s trial in the wilderness where the Saint must travel far from home, into the mountains or across the seas, like Colum Cille, or the White Martyrdom: sailing into the unknown, sailing before God’s wind wherever that took them, like St Brendan the patron saint of Navigators.

In Oronsay Colum didn't find his wilderness. He was not yet beyond the sight and the heart pull of Ireland.

Colum brought with him 12 saints, his followers and disciples, and together they built the first monks’ cells on Iona. The island became the epicentre of religious life and learning influencing a huge area for nearly 3 centuries.

Iona’s influence spread  far wider than the tiny size of the island would suggest. Artists and the finest craftsmen of their times gathered there. It was a centre for ground breaking innovation and creativity.

Thanks to Trinity College Dublin

The Book of Kells was created on Iona and later taken for safe keeping from the Nors men. A superb school of carving established. Kings of Scotland, Ireland and Norway are buried there. 48 kings on so tiny an island. It is a truly extraordinary place.

Nowadays as many as 140,000 modern pilgrims, tourists from all over the world, come over on the little ferry to visit Iona every year. In summer the ferry is like a little bus chugging to and fro.

Over and over again you hear “It’s SO spiritual”. It must drive local people a little mad. But it is undoubtedly beautiful. The Abbey, which was built in the 13^th century for the Benedictine order and restored in the 1960s by the Iona Community is fine. So is the tiny, well curated Museum, don’t miss it if you get the chance.

One more island slept on. Ten quid from me to Aban, the organisation who make it possible for so many young people every year to discover emotional strength and wellbeing from being outdoors.

Photo thanks to Neil Buckland

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